Emollients - Emollient esters

INCI NAME: Shea butter ethyl esters

LIPEX® SheaSolve™

Description

Lipex SheaSolve can be used with mineral and organic UV filters to effectively solve complex challenges, such as combining appealing texture and other sensory benefits with high SPF. And it shows SPF boosting properties when used with mineral UV filters.

 

Its low viscosity, high polarity and good solubilizing properties mean you can combine it with other ingredients for functional use across various cosmetic applications and formats, including stick and sprayable formulations.

 

Derived from sustainable shea and containing 100% carbon from renewable sources, Lipex SheaSolve is produced using energy-saving catalysts and processes. In addition, the low melting point means it is suitable for cold processing, making it an environmentally-friendly choice all around.

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Fact file

Appearance: clear, slightly yellow liquid
Slip melting point: 10 °C
Viscosity: 15 m-Pas @20 °C, 11 m-Pas @40 °C
Polarity: surface tension 25 mN/m, interfacial tension 13 mN/m
Recommended applications: sun care and UV protection, cleansing and skin care, hair care products

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Use in sun care and applications with UV protection

Typical use concentrations

5 – 20% in emulsions and 20 – 80% in anhydrous products

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Recommended partner products

Lipex Bassol C™, Lipex SheaTris™, Lipex SheaLiquid TR™, Lipex SheaClear™, Lipex PreAct™, Lipex SheaSoft TR™

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Features and benefits

  • Good solubilizing and dispersion capacity for both organic and inorganic UV filters make Lipex SheaSolve suitable for use in all types of sun care where a high SPF in combination with good aesthetics is essential.

 

  • Comparative studies on Lipex SheaSolve show effects on providing lower viscosity to dispersions containing high levels of mineral filters. The lower viscosity translates into a better wetting of the particles, which means the dispersant secures a lower agglomeration, making it more efficient than other natural or synthetic emollients. The resulting benefits include lower ghosting, better absorption, and improved finish in formulations.
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Watch the video showing the superior wetting properties of Lipex SheaSolve.

Lipex SheaSolve demonstrates a three times faster uptake in zinc oxide powder than caprylic/capric triglycerides and C12-15 alkyl benzoate, which indicates a better wetting capacity, making it an excellent potential choice for mineral sunscreen applications.

 

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Watch the video showing lower viscosity compared to other emollients.

The video shows how Lipex SheaSolve delivers lower viscosity and higher flowability to mineral UV filter dispersions than comparative emollients. A low viscosity dispersion means there has been good particle wetting, which means less agglomeration, resulting in lower ghosting and improved skin feel in final formulations.

 

 

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Watch the video showing reduced ghosting compared with other dispersants.

The video shows how a 20% zinc oxide dispersion with Lipex SheaSolve has a reduced whitening or ghosting effect and faster absorption on the skin compared to dispersions with caprylic/capric triglyceride and C12-C15 alkyl benzoate. As a result, Lipex SheaSolve will deliver a better skin appearance and feel in mineral sunscreen formulations.

 

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Graph showing the SPF boosting properties with mineral UV filters

 

An in-vitro study shows that when used with mineral UV filters Lipex SheaSolve provides an SPF boosting effect vs the other alternatives.

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Use in cleansing and skin care applications

Typical use concentrations

1 – 20% in emulsions and 5 – 70% in anhydrous products

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Recommended partner products

Lipex Bassol C™,  Lipex SheaTris™, Lipex SheaLiquid™TR, Lipex SheaSoft™TR, Lipex SheaClear™, Lipex PreAct™

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Features and benefits

  • Low viscosity, high polarity, and good solubilizing properties make Lipex SheaSolve an excellent choice for anhydrous and emulsion-based cleansing formulations, as it effectively dissolves skin impurities and all types of makeup, including waterproof products.

 

  • Reduces viscosity, improves spreadability, and lowers tackiness, making it a good sensory and performance enhancer for a wide range of skin care formulations, including massage oils.
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Use in hair care

Typical use concentrations

0.5% in shampoos, 3 – 5% in conditioners and scalp treatments, 10 – 70% in hair oils

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Recommended partner products

Lipex L’sens™, Lipex SheaTris™, Lipex Cellect™, Lipex PreAct™, Lipex SheaLiquid TR™

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Features and benefits

  • Lipex SheaSolve outperforms dimethicone to improve combability on both wet and dry hair, reducing the probability of hair breakage. 

 

  • An in-vivo preference test carried out by professional hairdressers showed that Lipex SheaSolve delivers similar sensory, spreadability and rinsability benefits as dimethicone throughout the whole washing process. And there was no significant difference in performance between the two.

 

  • Low viscosity, high polarity, and good spreadability ensure uniform coating of hair fibers with a thin, weightless, moisturizing film to improve silkiness, shine and combability, making Lipex SheaSolve a good alternative to linear, low molecular weight silicones in hair care application.

 

  • Readily biodegradable and 100% natural derived, Lipex SheaSolve can be combined with eco-friendly surfactants to produce environmentally-safe shampoos and conditioners.
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In-vitro studies show reduction in wet and dry combing force

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Regulatory Documents
downloadR0002 REACH Statement
downloadR0004 Statement on EU Cosmetic Regulation
downloadR0012 General Statement for AAK Ingredients.
downloadR0013 Regulatory Statement for AAK Ingredients.
downloadR0015 AAK PC Products and TGA status
downloadR0016 China NMPA Statement
downloadT0004-AAK Personal Care Position on Impurities
downloadT0008 General Statement
Product Data Sheet
downloadLIPEX SheaSolve PDS
Safety Data Sheet
downloadLIPEX ® SheaSolve™ SDS
Statements/Certificates
downloadCosmos Statement
downloadHalal Certificate
downloadISO 16128 Statement
downloadKosher Certificate
downloadLIPEX®SheaSolve™ Natrue
downloadT0010 Vegan Statement AAK
Other Documents
downloadLIPEX SheaSolve Non-GMO Statement
downloadLIPEX SheaSolve TSE/BSE Statement
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