Soft technology

Bloom-free, thermally-stable formulations every time

One of the most critical challenges formulators face when working with exotic butter is achieving thermally stable formulations with the desired sensory properties. Bloom is a common problem and can manifest in the final product on the shelf, resulting in a rough, grainy appearance, sweating, or a change in texture on storage.

Using an interesterification process, we have optimized all three of our shea, cocoa, and illipe soft butter variants to transition rapidly to the Beta (β) crystalline form. They form a small, homogenous, stable crystalline network without needing specialized equipment. This prevents bloom, reduces the need for additional texturizing agents, and keeps the viscosity constant over time.

In addition, all three of our soft butter variants have a flatter melting profile than their standard refined equivalents.

Close
Download

Specialty area*

What is the melting profile and what does it mean for your formulations?

The melting profile shows solid fat content as a function of temperature. We measure this by pulsed Nuclear Magnetic Resonance, which gives a direct readout of the solid content in an emollient at a given set of temperature data points, following standardized protocols. When these points are connected, they form the shape of the melting profile. 

The melting profile graphs below compare our optimized soft butter with their standard refined equivalents. As you will see, even when they share the same INCI name, the melting profiles are very different. And this indicates how the comparative butter variants will behave in formulations - on the skin and in the jar. A lower solid fat content at room temperature (20 °C) means the butter will be softer and more pliable. The higher solid fat content at skin temperature (35 °C) helps protect and repair the lipid barrier. And the higher solid fat content at 40 °C provides thermal stability to hydrous and anhydrous formulations and makes upscaling easier.

Melting profiles of our soft butter variants compared to their standard refined equivalents

Method: IUPAC 2.150 (b)

Method: IUPAC 2.150 (b)

 

Method: IUPAC 2.150 (b)

 

Understanding different melting profiles

This video takes an in-depth look at the different melting profiles of LIPEX® SheaSoft TR™ and standard refined shea butter. It uses polarized microscopy imagery to illustrate the different crystalline patterns at the relevant critical temperature points - room temperature, body temperature, and 40 °C.

 

You can learn more by registering for our online academy masterclass dedicated to the melting profile. 

Close
Success

Contact us

Specialty area*

Close
Close
Loading